![]() ![]() This should never be reduced, as the steel is simply too brittle to support a shallow bevel (the hard steel, though brittle, takes a better edge, and holds it longer).Ĭheck out our selection of chisels and find the right one for your next project. A Japanese mortise chisel, for example, normally comes with a factory grind of 45 degrees. Japanese chisels, because they have a very hard layer of steel bonded to a layer of iron, need steeper bevel angles. A razor-sharp edge allows you to increase the bevel angle and make the tool usable in a range of woods. In softwoods, too blunt a bevel angle can cause excessive fibre crushing and tear-out along the edge of the mortise. If the bevel angle is too shallow, the edge will chip. Hardwoods such as oak put tremendous stress on an edge. Place the chisel flat on the oilstone, ground face up, and lightly stroke it up and down to remove the burr.įor mortise chisels, the honing angle should be 35 to 40 degrees, depending upon the wood.Move the chisel backwards and forwards in a figure 8 movement along the full length of the stone, until a burr (raised edge to dispose of) forms on the flat side of the chisel and extends along the full width of the cutting edge. ![]() Raise the chisel to form an angle of 30 degrees with the stone.Rest the ground face flat on an oilstone which has been lubricated with light machine oil to keep the tool cool and float away metal particles.Many woodworkers use one chisel for every job and this can dull the edge quicker than expected. If you are looking for a product guide for a specific tool we carry, please check out the Tool Guides page.Ĭhisels are one of the most widely-used and generally abused tools currently made. This article contains links to how to sharpen a specific woodworking tool below as well as provide a brief overview of each. Whether you are sharpening up a chisel, a plane, or just information on sharpening stones, look no further. An edge of lesser quality material will literally crumble over time in use. Top quality steel is essential for a true, long lasting edge. It is unlikely that you will be able to have your tools reground and sharpened by a professional, so you must ensure you have the right equipment to do it yourself. ![]() The equipment for grinding and sharpening can be very simple or quite sophisticated, depending on the space and money available. Cutting should be effortless, and a correctly and perfectly sharpened tool is also much safer (which is why experienced woodworkers commonly say "a sharp blade is a safe blade"). No one seems to like sharpening tools, yet the satisfaction of using a really sharp tool is appreciated by everyone. Most tools are accurately ground at the factory, but few are ready-sharpened and all will need to be shar pened from time to time anyway. Perhaps the greatest deterrent to success, however, is the failure to appreciate that, no matter how perfect the tool is, if it has a cutting edge, then it must be sharpened. A great deal of the frustration and disappointment which people experience with woodcraft tools is caused by lack of guidance and instruction in the choice of those tools in the first place. ![]()
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